The Broken Islands
These are the Broken Islands, in Barkley Sound, on the West Coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada. I believe it's one of the most inaccessible, rugged and unspoiled places in the world.
My boat partner, Paul and I bring our sailboat here almost every year for a couple of weeks. Each year we learn more about handling our boat in heavy conditions and at night. We also get to test out and become familiar with new gear that we've installed in the past year, in real life conditions. This year we tested out "Otto" our new electronic autohelm. To my surprise it was far more useful than I thought it would be. It's great for holding a course in the fog and for downwind sailing where "Emma" our wind operated self steering Hydrovane, struggles. We were also pleased with our new speed gauge, low draw LED interior lighting, LED masthead light, salt water sink pump, dingy davit modifications, hammock storage system, solar charging system and battery system. It's all in preparation for our 3 month blue water voyage to Hawaii, scheduled for June 2014.
We got well off shore on the way up island. Out about 30 miles and out of sight of land. When the sun went down the stars were amazing! we got onto Bamfeild harbour at 1:30 AM. The phosphorescence in the water was spectacular as we could see millions of fish, shrimp, squid and krill fleeing from the bow of the boat as we approached. It was like a sunburst. Occasionally a large fish would spook and they looked like torpedo, shooting through the water as they fled.
These are the Broken Islands, in Barkley Sound, on the West Coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada. I believe it's one of the most inaccessible, rugged and unspoiled places in the world.
My boat partner, Paul and I bring our sailboat here almost every year for a couple of weeks. Each year we learn more about handling our boat in heavy conditions and at night. We also get to test out and become familiar with new gear that we've installed in the past year, in real life conditions. This year we tested out "Otto" our new electronic autohelm. To my surprise it was far more useful than I thought it would be. It's great for holding a course in the fog and for downwind sailing where "Emma" our wind operated self steering Hydrovane, struggles. We were also pleased with our new speed gauge, low draw LED interior lighting, LED masthead light, salt water sink pump, dingy davit modifications, hammock storage system, solar charging system and battery system. It's all in preparation for our 3 month blue water voyage to Hawaii, scheduled for June 2014.
We got well off shore on the way up island. Out about 30 miles and out of sight of land. When the sun went down the stars were amazing! we got onto Bamfeild harbour at 1:30 AM. The phosphorescence in the water was spectacular as we could see millions of fish, shrimp, squid and krill fleeing from the bow of the boat as we approached. It was like a sunburst. Occasionally a large fish would spook and they looked like torpedo, shooting through the water as they fled.
Effingham (Village) Island...
Each year we visit we learn more about the area, the first nations people and the wildlife. One of the highlights of this trip was a walking exploration of Effingham (Village) island.
It's long been one of our favourite fishing spots and we've sailed around here many times, but never set foot on the island. But this year we met a local whale researcher at the dock in Bamfeild. He took us aboard his boat, crammed with scientific equipment and we were given access to his customized charts. He pointed out some special and little known locations to visit. He also told us about the local whales, sharks and other marine life.
Each year we visit we learn more about the area, the first nations people and the wildlife. One of the highlights of this trip was a walking exploration of Effingham (Village) island.
It's long been one of our favourite fishing spots and we've sailed around here many times, but never set foot on the island. But this year we met a local whale researcher at the dock in Bamfeild. He took us aboard his boat, crammed with scientific equipment and we were given access to his customized charts. He pointed out some special and little known locations to visit. He also told us about the local whales, sharks and other marine life.
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Effingham Anchourage
Another highlight was the anchourage bay at Effingham. It's quite a popular spot and there were perhaps 6 boats there. A virtual rush hour in these parts. Amazing sunsets, schools of squid and we were treated to a bald eagle territorial battle. I'd seen this happen once before, years ago. the two eagles tussled in the sky and fell together towards the ground. One managed to pull out in time, but the other hit the water. Once in the water it had to swim to shore to dry off to get airborne again. The other eagle made repeated strafing dives on the almost defenceless swimming eagle. Eventually the beach was reached and after a few more attacks, the soggy eagle managed to take off. What was interesting was he didn't leave. He hovered around the edges of the bay and occasionally entered the territory enough for the other to give chase. In the end he did leave, it seemed more like a truce, than victory...
Another highlight was the anchourage bay at Effingham. It's quite a popular spot and there were perhaps 6 boats there. A virtual rush hour in these parts. Amazing sunsets, schools of squid and we were treated to a bald eagle territorial battle. I'd seen this happen once before, years ago. the two eagles tussled in the sky and fell together towards the ground. One managed to pull out in time, but the other hit the water. Once in the water it had to swim to shore to dry off to get airborne again. The other eagle made repeated strafing dives on the almost defenceless swimming eagle. Eventually the beach was reached and after a few more attacks, the soggy eagle managed to take off. What was interesting was he didn't leave. He hovered around the edges of the bay and occasionally entered the territory enough for the other to give chase. In the end he did leave, it seemed more like a truce, than victory...
Senset at Effingham Island...
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Cephalopods!
Following an amazing sunset in we were surprised to find the boat surrounded with thousands of small squid.
I'd caught and eaten fresh calamari years ago in bamfeild, and remembered how great they were. So I broke out the fishing rod. We lowered the dive light over the side, on a rope, to attract them and we also put the Go-Pro camera down on a line to film the action. In an hour we had a bucket load, thanks to Bob's squid angling prowess. That was followed by an a post-midnight calamari feast.
Following an amazing sunset in we were surprised to find the boat surrounded with thousands of small squid.
I'd caught and eaten fresh calamari years ago in bamfeild, and remembered how great they were. So I broke out the fishing rod. We lowered the dive light over the side, on a rope, to attract them and we also put the Go-Pro camera down on a line to film the action. In an hour we had a bucket load, thanks to Bob's squid angling prowess. That was followed by an a post-midnight calamari feast.
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Toquart Bay
In an attempt to escape the coastal fog and dry the laundry, we went up into Touquart Bay. We'd been there years before and anchored in the very same spot, only different this time because the loggers had clear cut the trees right down to the shore. It took a while to realize that, compared to the teaming activity at Effingham, there was not a sound here. Not a single bird could be seen or heard.
The water is heated by geothermal vents and compared to 14C on the open ocean, it's 23.5C here! We had a good snorkelling adventure too...
In an attempt to escape the coastal fog and dry the laundry, we went up into Touquart Bay. We'd been there years before and anchored in the very same spot, only different this time because the loggers had clear cut the trees right down to the shore. It took a while to realize that, compared to the teaming activity at Effingham, there was not a sound here. Not a single bird could be seen or heard.
The water is heated by geothermal vents and compared to 14C on the open ocean, it's 23.5C here! We had a good snorkelling adventure too...
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Ship wreck debris... a bent drive shaft and propeller with no blades. They must have hit the rocks under power.
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Japanese Tsunami debris.
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Here's the random images from the rest of the trip...
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The fish of the trip, about 18 pounds... an hour to land (feisty!). Our last time here, our best was 38 pounds. A little slow in the fishing department this year, still we were never without salmon to eat.
Up to 30 knots behind us on the homeward leg...
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